As Michigan’s largest and longest-operating winery, St. Julian Winery calls Paw Paw home. Notably, the winery sits in the heart of the state’s fruit belt region. Because of this, rich soil and an ideal climate drew founder Mariano Meconi to Van Buren County in 1936. At that time, he relocated the winery from Detroit after moving operations from Canada following Prohibition.
Historically, the region’s winegrowing roots stretch back to the 1860s. In those early years, vineyards supplied fruit to several wineries, many of which no longer exist. At the same time, the area supported a Welch’s grape juice factory established in 1919. Today, rolling hills east of Lake Michigan benefit from lake-effect conditions. As a result, these conditions create an ideal grape-growing climate and a diverse terroir.
Recognizing this potential, Michigan agricultural leaders acted early. In 1983, they established the Lake Michigan Shore American Viticultural Area. Notably, the designation came just three years after the federal AVA program began. Today, Lake Michigan Shore ranks as Michigan’s second-largest AVA and covers more than 1.28 million acres.
“Nearly all of our wines, ciders, and spirits use Michigan-grown agricultural products,” says Nancie Oxley, Vice President of Winemaking at St. Julian. Because of this transparency, consumers can easily identify fruit sources on each label. For example, wines labeled “Lake Michigan Shore” contain at least 85 percent fruit from within the AVA. Similarly, bottles labeled “Michigan” use at least 75 percent fruit grown statewide. Meanwhile, wines made entirely from St. Julian’s Mountain Road Vineyard carry the “Estate” designation.
Today, St. Julian partners with about 20 Michigan grape growers. Together, they cultivate a wide range of varietals. These include native grapes, vinifera, and French-American hybrids. Among the most common are Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Merlot. In addition, growers produce unique grapes such as Barbera, LaCrescent, Sangiovese, and Rougeon. Notably, Rougeon appears in Cento, St. Julian’s 100th anniversary wine, blended with Marquette and Chambourcin.
“One grower approached us about planting Albariño,” Oxley says. At the time, no other Michigan grower had a significant planting. Typically, Albariño thrives in warmer regions. Even so, the grape performed exceptionally well. As a result, other growers soon followed with their own plantings. Later, the same grower suggested Tempranillo. “Once again, we were surprised,” Oxley adds. “The wine performs beautifully as both a rosé and a red.”
Overall, St. Julian now works with more than 50 grape varietals across its winemaking portfolio. Collectively, these varietals contribute to a wide catalog of award-winning wines.
“Michigan is still a young wine region,” Oxley says. Because of that, many varietals remain untested. “We know some grapes grow well here, but many have yet to be explored.” For this reason, experimentation remains essential. “If we do not plant them, we never know if they will succeed.” At the same time, microclimates within the AVA play a critical role. Careful site selection, therefore, ensures each varietal thrives.
In addition to its diversity, St. Julian processes more Michigan wine grapes than any other winery in the state. Each year, the winery handles more than 6,000 tons of fruit. Of that total, between 50 and 60 tons come from its Mountain Road Estate Vineyard in Coloma. At the estate, seven vinifera varietals support small-batch wines. These include Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, and newly planted Sangiovese.
“Managing Mountain Road has been both challenging and rewarding,” says Sarah Braganini. Alongside her husband, St. Julian President John Braganini, she owns and operates the vineyard. Above all, weather presents the greatest challenge. “Last year, we added netting to protect the crop from birds and deer,” she says. As a result, fruit quality improved significantly. Now, the vineyard uses netting every season. “Ultimately, seeing our fruit become award-winning wines makes the effort worthwhile.”
Each year, St. Julian strengthens its Pure Michigan presence. In practice, the winery expands grape varieties, increases processing volume, and grows its tasting room footprint across southern Michigan. Meanwhile, distribution continues to expand beyond state lines. Taken together, these efforts support a larger story. At its core, that story reflects a family business rooted in Michigan agriculture and focused on long-term success.
“St. Julian remains committed to Michigan agriculture,” Oxley says. In her view, a world-class wine region cannot rely on outside fruit. In fact, every renowned wine region builds quality on local grapes. Here in Michigan, several unique microclimates shape wine character. As a result, St. Julian embraces fruit from many of them, with a primary focus on Lake Michigan Shore. From Baroda to Lawton, each area imparts distinct character. Ultimately, those differences reflect terroir, sometimes down to a single vineyard block.
